Thursday, October 20, 2005
Desert
In all of Tozeur we see horses and carriages and although we used to avoid taking a tour with kids it’s different. Instead of the usual tour visiting all kinds of things we stick to a drive through the palm fields which turns out to be long enough for Rik, who wants to get out after 30 minutes! The palm fields are all around Tozeur and every garden has its own gardener to look after the trees. Besides the palm trees with dates there are orange, banana and granite apple trees. Unfortunately the oranges are still green and therefore not for sale yet. It’s not the western world where seasons seem unimportant for the steady supply of vegetables and fruit. But right beyond the last palm tree you find yourself in the desert. Without the water of the few remaining springs in Tozeur nothing grows over here as rain is hardly existing, the few raindrops that fell last night could nearly be counted! Desert in Tozeur is salt lakes, sand but also rocks, some small bushes here and there and several oasis filled with palm trees.
To get from Tozeur to Douz we cross a large salt lake on a dike. There is hardly any water but they collected enough salt to create some salty statues of camels next to the cafés along the road. The sun is shining and we easily reach temperatures above 30° in the car. It is not easy to leave paradise in search for the next place, but when we reach the Desert Club campsite in Douz we find 2 Dutch speaking children with lots of nice toys and Bart and Rik have a wonderful afternoon playing. In the meantime we get information from their parents about Libya and in the evening we enjoy a drink and a good conversation.
We find we are lucky because the weekly market is held and already during breakfast the goats and sheep can be heard. The market is full of animals and men, the only woman around sells camel saddles, ropes etc. One cow, a few rabbits, turkeys and a lot of baby chicken are for sale. Bart loves the baby chicken and tries to persuade us to buy one. But what to do with it in the small living area that we have at the moment? Maybe at home next year.
The next day we drive a tour in the desert south of Douz and see camels waiting for tourists, sandy hills and another market in El Farouane. Time to buy some special Ramadan sweets and take more pictures. Most older men wear white capes and have their heads covered too. The young men wear western clothes like the girls.
Every one seems to have a donkey carrier around here, only a few people own cars. We feel we are lucky to have one as it is so much easier to get around without having to find out when and where buses or vans leave for the destination. Whenever we are finished we continue and all food and drinks are available in our bus.
From Douz we drive to Matmata and enjoy driving through the mountains. In Matmata people used to live in dug out cave houses and there are still a few to be seen. In 1969 there was not even a house above the ground, but after some serious floods they started living above the ground. We choose to spend a night in cave hotel Sidi Driss where they filmed for Star Wars in 1976. Some of the materials used are still there and are an additional attraction for tourists. Busses full of tourists arrive here to have a look, maybe something to drink and eat and take some pictures. We had no idea so many Holywood films were recorded in Tunisia. Also one of our favorites: Life of Brian by Monty Python, the scene of the crucifixion where they try to sell pointy stones. Well enough stones to sell around here.
As restaurants open here after the cook has eaten his own meal it is too late for us and the boys so we cook and eat in our bus. I already feel so much at home in the bus that it is a uncomfortable feeling to leave it for one night in a hotel. In the evening we have a drink in the Star Wars bar and have enough light to read. The only four other guests remain in a different room to eat and drink. No you certainly do not meet many other individual travelers in Tunisia. The only hot spots seem to be in and around Tozeur, Douz and very likely the 4WD areas of Ksar Ghilane. The rest is reserved for the package deal tourist who likes sea and sand and makes a day trip.
One night in Matmata is enough so we continue via El Haddej to Tatatouine. In El Haddej more underground houses are still visible and a village boy shows us around. We see the wedding cave where married couples had to spend their first nights and a olive press cave where a camel or donkey used to walk around in a narrow area to move a crushing stone for the olives. After the crushing the olive parts were put in a basket and heavy stones pressed the oil out of them. To be honest the Roman system we saw in Sbeitla looked pretty much the same, but without the animal walking around and around. The nicest thing was the small house his baby brother played with, a copy of a cave house for kids.
From the mountains into the flat area to reach the hills of Tatatouine again. We followed some small roads to find the first hill ksar of Joumaa. The Berbers used these buildings to store their grains and other valuables and they look like fortresses. They were built to prevent invaders from stealing and did a good job. Bart and Rik enjoyed chasing the cat from one little house to the next while Hans found some nice ceiling decorations inside the caves. I did not feel like going inside but could enjoy the decorations from outside too. The famous Ksar Haddada did not reveal its secrets, we found the village but not the film-shooting site for the IV Star Wars movie. Well one cannot have it all. In Tataouine we arrived at Hotel Mabruk and could camp in their nice garden. We saw two Trabant cars that made it from Douz via Ksar Ghilane to Tataouine, but not without having to work hard to get them back on the road. According to the notes on the side of one car nearly every day had its own problem to solve. The 3 men still seemed to enjoy the trip, the woman had her own thoughts about it. No wonder we see a lot of men on a holiday who left their women at home to enjoy an adventurous trip. Often women prefer a more secure way of living I think and especially when kids are around.
From Tataouine we drive a loop road via the beautiful ksar of Ouled Soltane which you can find on nearly every post card. And for a good reason because it’s a beautiful 4 storey high building with stairs to reach upper levels and doors made of palm tree trunks. This ksar is not built on a hill top, but right next to the village and the loads of tourist have not yet arrived. It’s always nice to enjoy a place by yourself.
From Ouled Soltane the small but reasonable road continues to Ksar Ezzahra. Here the ksar is still partly in use. A small grocery shop is housed in one of the buildings and through a gate you reach the second courtyard. A nice place to enjoy some fruit out of sight. We sit next to the remains of a kind of chess game, with lids of bottles the two players play on the sandy play field, filled with lines and small holes. Unfortunately a boy thought to impress his friends by twisting Rik’s ear. Although Rik can handle pain his was crying out loud and Hans made a theater to show we could not except this behaviour. Normally the kids only receive kisses and other nice things so I was not prepared for this.
As the temperature was high we decided to leave the next day for Djerba, the tourist island for some swimming, playing and relaxing. But first the second loop road with the hill ksar of Chenini and Douenne was conquered by us. Some climbing was involved, either by our car on a goats track where luckily no other car was coming from the other side, or by us. At Douenne Rik and I made a drawing while Hans and Bart were climbing the rocks. Slightly overheated we reached the beach of Aghir and saw the 2 Dutchmen again. We found a spot in the shade and tried to cool down. Not easy and both Hans and I fell ill by the combination of heat, not enough fluids drunk and tiredness. Fortunately the boys have a great time playing in the sand and sea. So we are preparing for our Libyan leg of the trip, recovering and spending the last Tunisian dinars.
.
To get from Tozeur to Douz we cross a large salt lake on a dike. There is hardly any water but they collected enough salt to create some salty statues of camels next to the cafés along the road. The sun is shining and we easily reach temperatures above 30° in the car. It is not easy to leave paradise in search for the next place, but when we reach the Desert Club campsite in Douz we find 2 Dutch speaking children with lots of nice toys and Bart and Rik have a wonderful afternoon playing. In the meantime we get information from their parents about Libya and in the evening we enjoy a drink and a good conversation.
We find we are lucky because the weekly market is held and already during breakfast the goats and sheep can be heard. The market is full of animals and men, the only woman around sells camel saddles, ropes etc. One cow, a few rabbits, turkeys and a lot of baby chicken are for sale. Bart loves the baby chicken and tries to persuade us to buy one. But what to do with it in the small living area that we have at the moment? Maybe at home next year.
The next day we drive a tour in the desert south of Douz and see camels waiting for tourists, sandy hills and another market in El Farouane. Time to buy some special Ramadan sweets and take more pictures. Most older men wear white capes and have their heads covered too. The young men wear western clothes like the girls.
Every one seems to have a donkey carrier around here, only a few people own cars. We feel we are lucky to have one as it is so much easier to get around without having to find out when and where buses or vans leave for the destination. Whenever we are finished we continue and all food and drinks are available in our bus.
From Douz we drive to Matmata and enjoy driving through the mountains. In Matmata people used to live in dug out cave houses and there are still a few to be seen. In 1969 there was not even a house above the ground, but after some serious floods they started living above the ground. We choose to spend a night in cave hotel Sidi Driss where they filmed for Star Wars in 1976. Some of the materials used are still there and are an additional attraction for tourists. Busses full of tourists arrive here to have a look, maybe something to drink and eat and take some pictures. We had no idea so many Holywood films were recorded in Tunisia. Also one of our favorites: Life of Brian by Monty Python, the scene of the crucifixion where they try to sell pointy stones. Well enough stones to sell around here.
As restaurants open here after the cook has eaten his own meal it is too late for us and the boys so we cook and eat in our bus. I already feel so much at home in the bus that it is a uncomfortable feeling to leave it for one night in a hotel. In the evening we have a drink in the Star Wars bar and have enough light to read. The only four other guests remain in a different room to eat and drink. No you certainly do not meet many other individual travelers in Tunisia. The only hot spots seem to be in and around Tozeur, Douz and very likely the 4WD areas of Ksar Ghilane. The rest is reserved for the package deal tourist who likes sea and sand and makes a day trip.
One night in Matmata is enough so we continue via El Haddej to Tatatouine. In El Haddej more underground houses are still visible and a village boy shows us around. We see the wedding cave where married couples had to spend their first nights and a olive press cave where a camel or donkey used to walk around in a narrow area to move a crushing stone for the olives. After the crushing the olive parts were put in a basket and heavy stones pressed the oil out of them. To be honest the Roman system we saw in Sbeitla looked pretty much the same, but without the animal walking around and around. The nicest thing was the small house his baby brother played with, a copy of a cave house for kids.
From the mountains into the flat area to reach the hills of Tatatouine again. We followed some small roads to find the first hill ksar of Joumaa. The Berbers used these buildings to store their grains and other valuables and they look like fortresses. They were built to prevent invaders from stealing and did a good job. Bart and Rik enjoyed chasing the cat from one little house to the next while Hans found some nice ceiling decorations inside the caves. I did not feel like going inside but could enjoy the decorations from outside too. The famous Ksar Haddada did not reveal its secrets, we found the village but not the film-shooting site for the IV Star Wars movie. Well one cannot have it all. In Tataouine we arrived at Hotel Mabruk and could camp in their nice garden. We saw two Trabant cars that made it from Douz via Ksar Ghilane to Tataouine, but not without having to work hard to get them back on the road. According to the notes on the side of one car nearly every day had its own problem to solve. The 3 men still seemed to enjoy the trip, the woman had her own thoughts about it. No wonder we see a lot of men on a holiday who left their women at home to enjoy an adventurous trip. Often women prefer a more secure way of living I think and especially when kids are around.
From Tataouine we drive a loop road via the beautiful ksar of Ouled Soltane which you can find on nearly every post card. And for a good reason because it’s a beautiful 4 storey high building with stairs to reach upper levels and doors made of palm tree trunks. This ksar is not built on a hill top, but right next to the village and the loads of tourist have not yet arrived. It’s always nice to enjoy a place by yourself.
From Ouled Soltane the small but reasonable road continues to Ksar Ezzahra. Here the ksar is still partly in use. A small grocery shop is housed in one of the buildings and through a gate you reach the second courtyard. A nice place to enjoy some fruit out of sight. We sit next to the remains of a kind of chess game, with lids of bottles the two players play on the sandy play field, filled with lines and small holes. Unfortunately a boy thought to impress his friends by twisting Rik’s ear. Although Rik can handle pain his was crying out loud and Hans made a theater to show we could not except this behaviour. Normally the kids only receive kisses and other nice things so I was not prepared for this.
As the temperature was high we decided to leave the next day for Djerba, the tourist island for some swimming, playing and relaxing. But first the second loop road with the hill ksar of Chenini and Douenne was conquered by us. Some climbing was involved, either by our car on a goats track where luckily no other car was coming from the other side, or by us. At Douenne Rik and I made a drawing while Hans and Bart were climbing the rocks. Slightly overheated we reached the beach of Aghir and saw the 2 Dutchmen again. We found a spot in the shade and tried to cool down. Not easy and both Hans and I fell ill by the combination of heat, not enough fluids drunk and tiredness. Fortunately the boys have a great time playing in the sand and sea. So we are preparing for our Libyan leg of the trip, recovering and spending the last Tunisian dinars.
.
# posted by Hans, Monique, Bart en Rik @ 2:39 pm 
